There is so much wrong with that article it would almost be funny if people weren’t using it as a guide!!!
The first 2 sentences are wrong for a start. Then it says that nitrates make the water liveable for fish?? WTF??
It doesn’t say to do a big water change at the end of the cycle before adding fish. Doesn’t say that you don’t want any nitrates in a marine tank (causes algae along with phosphate marine fish can also be more sensitive to nitrate than fresh)
No mention of using RO water until right near the bottom in option 3 and only then for using Kalkwasser.
The answers to the questions are pants too!
Grrrrrrr!!!!!!! ****heads!!!!
Thinking about marine
- SnowAddict
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[quote="Cheltgirl" pid='27073' dateline='1559750993']
There is so much wrong with that article it would almost be funny if people weren’t using it as a guide!!!
The first 2 sentences are wrong for a start. Then it says that nitrates make the water liveable for fish?? WTF??
It doesn’t say to do a big water change at the end of the cycle before adding fish. Doesn’t say that you don’t want any nitrates in a marine tank (causes algae along with phosphate marine fish can also be more sensitive to nitrate than fresh)
No mention of using RO water until right near the bottom in option 3 and only then for using Kalkwasser.
The answers to the questions are pants too!
Grrrrrrr!!!!!!! ****heads!!!!
[/quote]
Quick pointer on this, you do want nitrates and phosphates. Without either you’ll starve corals such as softies and LPS. They need to be balanced though, worth reading up on the red field ratio.
My opinions on some of the other bits discussed above.
I use real reef rock (synthetic/man made) for all off my installs now, your in total control of what’s going into your tank, also the nutrients and pests. Also gives a great look straight from the off, recent install with happy customer:
Nice thing about it is that it’s seeded with bacteria so treat it as live when setting the tank up, straight into salt water not ro.
Bottled bacteria’s such as Dr. Tim’s one and only are great and do work if you follow the instructions, but nothing will beat traditional cycling methods imo.
As for ease of a marine system.... it’s as difficult as you want to make it, same with a freshwater system. If you want a coral heavy system then it’s going to require dosing and frequent tests to keep on top of parameters. But you can easily set up a nano system with soft corals and maintain a health thriving system with weekly water changes.
It’s honestly not as scary as people have you believe.
Hope this helps?
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There is so much wrong with that article it would almost be funny if people weren’t using it as a guide!!!
The first 2 sentences are wrong for a start. Then it says that nitrates make the water liveable for fish?? WTF??
It doesn’t say to do a big water change at the end of the cycle before adding fish. Doesn’t say that you don’t want any nitrates in a marine tank (causes algae along with phosphate marine fish can also be more sensitive to nitrate than fresh)
No mention of using RO water until right near the bottom in option 3 and only then for using Kalkwasser.
The answers to the questions are pants too!
Grrrrrrr!!!!!!! ****heads!!!!
[/quote]
Quick pointer on this, you do want nitrates and phosphates. Without either you’ll starve corals such as softies and LPS. They need to be balanced though, worth reading up on the red field ratio.
My opinions on some of the other bits discussed above.
I use real reef rock (synthetic/man made) for all off my installs now, your in total control of what’s going into your tank, also the nutrients and pests. Also gives a great look straight from the off, recent install with happy customer:
Nice thing about it is that it’s seeded with bacteria so treat it as live when setting the tank up, straight into salt water not ro.
Bottled bacteria’s such as Dr. Tim’s one and only are great and do work if you follow the instructions, but nothing will beat traditional cycling methods imo.
As for ease of a marine system.... it’s as difficult as you want to make it, same with a freshwater system. If you want a coral heavy system then it’s going to require dosing and frequent tests to keep on top of parameters. But you can easily set up a nano system with soft corals and maintain a health thriving system with weekly water changes.
It’s honestly not as scary as people have you believe.
Hope this helps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Sarah
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Thanks for your input and after looking up real reef rock that is definitely interesting.SnowAddict wrote:Cheltgirl wrote: There is so much wrong with that article it would almost be funny if people weren’t using it as a guide!!!
The first 2 sentences are wrong for a start. Then it says that nitrates make the water liveable for fish?? WTF??
It doesn’t say to do a big water change at the end of the cycle before adding fish. Doesn’t say that you don’t want any nitrates in a marine tank (causes algae along with phosphate marine fish can also be more sensitive to nitrate than fresh)
No mention of using RO water until right near the bottom in option 3 and only then for using Kalkwasser.
The answers to the questions are pants too!
Grrrrrrr!!!!!!! ****heads!!!!
Quick pointer on this, you do want nitrates and phosphates. Without either you’ll starve corals such as softies and LPS. They need to be balanced though, worth reading up on the red field ratio.
My opinions on some of the other bits discussed above.
I use real reef rock (synthetic/man made) for all off my installs now, your in total control of what’s going into your tank, also the nutrients and pests. Also gives a great look straight from the off, recent install with happy customer:
Nice thing about it is that it’s seeded with bacteria so treat it as live when setting the tank up, straight into salt water not ro.
Bottled bacteria’s such as Dr. Tim’s one and only are great and do work if you follow the instructions, but nothing will beat traditional cycling methods imo.
As for ease of a marine system.... it’s as difficult as you want to make it, same with a freshwater system. If you want a coral heavy system then it’s going to require dosing and frequent tests to keep on top of parameters. But you can easily set up a nano system with soft corals and maintain a health thriving system with weekly water changes.
It’s honestly not as scary as people have you believe.
Hope this helps?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I do have a quick question please, that first picture with such a fantastic size tank...is it in a conservatory?
- SnowAddict
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Yes it is in a conservatory, the conservatory is open plan to the rest of the house. We installed a remote chiller located outside, the roof panels are frosted and there are blinds installed to block direct sunlight.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Cheltgirl
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That’s a fantastic tank!!
Must remember to get a lottery ticket
Must remember to get a lottery ticket
500L Sooperhooge Goldfish tank
200L The Barbarium….Tiger barbs and a very grumpy BN plec
200L Marine Reef.....stocking in progress!
200L The Barbarium….Tiger barbs and a very grumpy BN plec
200L Marine Reef.....stocking in progress!